FIGHT BACK! BY DAVID HOROWITZ
         In Winter's Grip

        Like most Southern Californians, I don't think much about  winterizing my car -- until 
someone in the family mentions a  weekend ski trip to the mountains. Suddenly, I am reminded 
that  the car that got me through the rest of the year with no problems  might not be ready for 
driving in ice and snow.
        The first thing to check are the tires. Experts recommend  good, properly inflated 
all-weather tires with plenty of tread.  Balding or under-inflated tires can lose traction when 
there's  snow or ice on the road. Tires also lose a pound of pressure for  every 10-degree drop in 
the outside temperature and may need to be  brought back up to recommended pressure when 
driving from a warmer  area to a cold one.
        It's also time to think about chains or cable traction  devices. Many cars won't take 
conventional chains because there  isn't enough clearance between the tire and the inside of the 
 wheel well. So, before you buy or rent tire chains, be sure you  read your owner's manual and 
use the type that is recommended by  the manufacturer.
        Dead batteries can cause all sorts of problems in the winter.  Even a marginal battery will 
turn over the engine in warm weather.  But, starting a car in near-freezing temperatures puts a  
tremendous strain on the battery and could cause it to fail. If  your battery is 3 to 5 years old, it 
might be time to replace i or  at least have it tested. If you need a new one, get the strongest  
brand-name battery you can buy for your particular car -- one with  a good, long warranty.
        Even if the battery is relatively new, check it for cracks  and other external damage. Cables 
should also be in good  condition. Corrosion on the battery terminals makes it work harder  and 
may be a sign the battery is failing. If the battery checks  out OK, then clean the terminals with 
steel wool or a wire brush.
        If your car has a manual transmission, start it with the  clutch in. That way, the starter 
doesn't have to turn over gears  in the transmission that are bathed in thick, cold gear oil.  That's 
much easier on the battery.
        If it's been a year or more since you changed the car's  coolant, have the radiator flushed 
and refilled with fresh  antifreeze. You should also add an antifreeze solvent to the  windshield 
washer reservoir and check to see that the wiper blades  are in good condition. You may want to 
buy special winter blades  that can clear your windshield even in the worst weather  conditions.
        When you fill your car with gas, add a can of fuel-line  antifreeze. This will keep 
condensation in the tank from freezing  and blocking the fuel line. It also helps to keep your fuel 
tank  as full as possible.
        If you can't park your car in a garage or carport, then park  it with the rear of the vehicle to 
the wind. Doing that will help  protect sensitive engine parts from freezing and cracking in the  
cold. You can also put a 75-watt light bulb under the hood to keep  the engine from freezing. Be 
sure it securely clamped, however, so  it can't touch anything.
        Finally, be extremely careful driving in severe weather,  especially if you don't live where it 
snows every winter. Keep  your speed down and be prepared for patches of "black ice," a thin  
layer of ice on the pavement that is nearly invisible from behind  the wheel.
        If you have any questions or comments, please write to David  Horowitz in the Consumer 
Forum+ (go FIGHTBACK). COPYRIGHT 1995 CREATORS SYNDICATE, INC.