TUCoPS :: Scams :: counter.txt

How to counterfeit US money


Written by --------------------------> The Wave 
     This article deals with how to make counterfeit money.  Before reading 
this article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset 
printing, for that's how you'll have to print it.  For someone who is  familiar
with offset printing, printing money is a breeze.  Real money is made by a
process called gravure.  It involves carving out of a metal block (but I don't
think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's
Incredible!).  When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will 
have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your
printing skills.  Well, let's get started!
 First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works.  It starts by
making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera). Then
you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material ( usually
orange).  Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a   lithographic
plate with an arc light plate maker.  The BURNED plates are then developed with
the proper developer chemical.  These plates (one at a time of course) are
wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.  The press to use should be an
11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360.  Then the printing
begins!  To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you  should again get
a book on the subject.  The presswork takes some practice,  but you'll get the
hang of it.
     Ok, quit babbling on, Wave, and start the good stuff!  By the way you can
pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can  **
BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the  morning!). 
First, like I said before, you need negatives.  Make 2 negatives of the portrait
side of the bill and 1 of the back side.  After developing them and letting them
dry, take them to a light table.  Get some opaque and, on one of the portrait
sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial numbers).  Line that one
up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top of the flat.  Then for the
other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal  and serial numbers.  The back
side doesn't require any retouching because it is all one color.  Now, make sure
all the negatives are lined up right, or REGISTERED, on the flats.  By the way,
every time you need another serial  number, just shoot 1 neg. of the portrait
side and cut out the serial number. Cut out the old serial number from the flat
and replace it with the new one.  
     Ok, now you have 3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2
shades of green (which of course are made by mixing inks).  Now you are ready to
burn the plates.  Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it.  These marks
must be 2 & 9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges.  Do the same
thing to 2 more plates.  Then take 1 of the flats and place it on the  plate,
lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY!  Burn it, move it
up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you already burned. Burn that
and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat up one mark.   Then do the
same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate).   Develope all 3
plates.  You should have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each
                             Roll the Presses!
                             ---- --- -------
     The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty 
damn close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!).  The paper to use should
have a 25% rag content.  I have found that Disaperf computer paper works 
great - that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation.  Take this 
paper (cut the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press.  Be sure to
set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right.  Start with the black plate (the
one with out the serial numbers).  Wrap it around the cylinder and load black
ink in.  Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a  lot of
rejects.  Then, while that's printing, mix the inks for the serial #'s and the
back side.  You'll need to add some white and maybe yellow to the  serial # ink. 
You need to add black to back side.  Experiment till you get it right.  Clean
the press and print the other side.  Now you have the bill wioth no green seal
or serial numbers.  Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. 
Keep doing this until you have as many different  numbers as you want.  Then cut
the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter   Now you have a lot of money,
except there is still one problemo - the paper is pure white.  To dye it, mix
the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4  
tea bags, and about 16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment).  Dip one of
the bills in and compare it to a brand new REAL bill.  Make the neces-sary
adjustments, and dye all the bills.  Then it is a good idea to make them look
used.  Wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.  Congratulations! You're
     Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man's James Bond, but most from
personal knowledge.  Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live  and
Die in L.A.  It is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of show-ing how
to do it.  Well, that's all folks!

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