==============================================================================
|| ||
|| FLIP_CBL.CT - 9746 - 02/07/94 ||
|| ||
|| Assembling a _QUALITY_ Motorola Flip programming cable ||
|| from a standard battery eliminator. ||
|| ||
|| Written by KG/Control Team/Umf ||
|| ||
==============================================================================
Word. It seems that alot of bad cables are being sold by some lame asses
here on the west coast. The result, alot of _rare_ LO phonez are being fried.
Welp, this file should clear things up. Even if you've never made anything
but clay pots this should be easy for ya. Take your time and this, along with
your phone will last a lifetime...
Parts: (1) 550 Battery Eliminator
(2) IN4001 Diodes
(1) Head pins(single row straight stick headers)
(1) DB25/RS232 Connector for connection to LPT1
(1) METAL DB25 cover/protector
(1) 1 1/2 foot of 5 line ribbon
(1) jumper wire (be creative)
Tools: Sizzors (I like sizzors for splicing wires)
Soldering Iron
Hot glue gun (borrow mom's)
Exacto knife (optional)
DMM w/continuity
I'll try and be as verbose as possible. All references to the plastic
part that connects the phone to the cable will be known here as the ADAPTER.
The hardest thing to find, at least in where I am, is a battery eliminator
that has all 8 pins on the ADAPTER. So if ya do have a cable with all the
pins you can skip this paragraph. What I did was to go ahead and shell
out the 35 duckets for a battery eliminator that only had pin's 7 & 8 (power)
on the ADAPTER. Go to you local electronix shop and pick up a pack of head
pins. These puppies are the EXACT same thing as what's in the ADAPTER, 'cept
their nickel instead of copper. Cut 4 of them off the plastic but be carefull
not to bend them when you do so.
Carefully pry off the cover of the ADAPTER and use the exacto knife to
get the pins and attatched wires out of the cover. Otherwise you'll end
up melting the cover, and trashing the project. Now de-solder the wires
connected to pins 7 & 8, wrap then with 2 of the ribbon's leads then re-solder
them back to the same pins. Once again, be carefull not to bend them.
Now solder the other 4 ribbon lead to the pins 1, 4-6. Now carefully put
each pin back into the ADAPTER cover, if some of the holes are filled with
resin (batt eliminator), simply push an _extra_ bridge pin thru to get that
shit out! Make a note of their colors, then take the DMM and and go over all
the connections, making sure that no pin one pin on the ADAPTER is _touching
another: 1-4, 2-8, 4-6 ect... * note that pins 7 & 8 will show values from
due to the voltage regulator inside the ciggy plug.
Fire up that hot glue gun and place some on the cover to make sure those
pins/ wires / solder don't move around when ya put the ADAPTER back together.
Don't put too much on or you wont be able to close it. Wait a min or 2 until
that dries, then throw some glue into the ADAPTER and quickly close it up.
As for the DB25 you shouldn't have any trouble. Just make sure you solder
the Diode to the wire before soldering it the the port. Remember parallel pin
specs are not the same as serial!!
The following is a diagram of a DB25 connector (soldering side). The "*"
marks the plain wires, "@" marks placement of the diodes, and the "+" marks
where the jumper connects to the anode side of diode one:
+
13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
* * . . . . . . . @ . @ *
. . . . . . . * . . . .
25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14
Connect the cathode(black striped) side of the IN4001 to the port!!!!
Cathode Anode
------- | / -----
| /|
| / |
LPT1/pin4 or 2 ________| /__|_________ ADAPTER pin 1
| \ | or Jumper wire
| \ |
| \|
| \
IN4001
(educational innit?)
____________
/ !THE SHIT! \
/ \
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ +
+ +
+ DB25 FLIP Battery Eliminator cable +
+ ---- ---- attatchment pins up: +
+ 1(--------)4 +
+ --------= +
+ 2(--|<----)Jump this line to the Center 1 = +
+ Pin on the back of phone. --------= +
+ = +
+ 4(--|<----)1 "|<" is the IN4001 diode. --------= +
+ = +
+ 12(--------)5 --------= +
+ 4 = -->To phone +
+ 13(--------)6 --------= +
+ 5 = +
+ 18(-+------)8 --------= +
+ | 6 = +
+ | +-)7 --------= +
+ | | 7* = +
+ | | --------= +
+ | | 8* = +
+ NeG PoS ---Cig adapter --------= +
+ +
+ +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This cable will work with the 6.6, 9.11 & 9.9 software. This means that
without a) AMPS or b) The Trick Clip you'll need to find a Flip that has a
firmware revision equal to or below 9122. A good sign that the phone is
indeed a LO, is to check the ESN located on the back and look for any prefix
below A2A. If you can't locate the ESN sticker, usually cause it's stolen,
then look for a MCsquared printed along with the menu sticker. If the phone
has the MC2 don't buy it. If the phone doesn't have the menu sticker don't
buy it! Also before you fork over the $$$ make sure that all the ports on the
phone are in good condition.
Some people may experience problems with 486 machines. I'm looking into
slowing the shit down in order for the phone to respond. One way is to divide
your BIOS bus clock by 6, another is to load a TSR that actually slows your
CPU, although I haven't yet found this to work for me. 286-386 processors
work fine. Short cables are a must!
Here are some things I'm looking for:
a) !!!CCS ESN Decode software for DDI/D R.1.1
b) AMPS(without accuFUCK)
c) Old DDI soft(bootleg days)
d) System 85 defaults
e) Deal with a techno label (had to throw it in)
Scheduled for release: Nova Coast P9346 programming hardware.
SID/AC database.
Long term projects: Finish the ESN decode software for the DDI/D.
Map Local Cellsite's/freq allocations
Leave me mail on The New York Hack Exchange (718) 379-4702.
Greetz: Maestro, Punisher, Raven, Bitstream, Video Vindicator, IBMMAN,
Zaphod Beeblebrox/ICS, The Mortician, Brujjo, 33, p/\nther,
Digital Hitler, Oyakatta, Intrepid Traveller, [metoner],
HTH, UMF, CT members.
...an dall de' resta' ya fuckin' mentals!!
...KG / Control Team / UMF
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