TUCoPS :: Phreaking Boxes - Miscellaneous

TUCoPS :: Phreaking Boxes - Miscellaneous :: bbb001.txt
The Big Book of Boxes

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i S S U E # 1

By: PARAS˜TE [CoRoSioN SENioR]

Welcome to issue 1 of Big Book of Boxes. In these few issues I will
present information on many types of boxes by showing you MANY text philes
written in the past; although some of the boxes have become obsolete, I believe
that by telling others about their existence, this may breed NEW ideas for NEW
boxes. Enjoy, and if you want to lend some help to B.B.B., call REALMS OF
DECADENCE at 216-671-0078,,t66 (use the ,,t66), and leave me some mail, or
just upload the text file that you would like to have featured in B.B.B.

iN this issue, you will find info. on the following boxes:

o Acrylic
o Aqua
o Assassin
o Beige
o Black
o Blast
o Blotto
o Blue

ACRYLIC BOX

Ok the purpose of this box is to get Three-Way-Calling, Call Waiting,
programmable Call Forwarding, and an easier way of extended Bud Boxing ALL for
FREE.

Materials:

1) Wire stripers
2) Couple Feet Wire
3) AT&T/BELL Can
4) Hex Wrench

Idea: Ok the idea of this box is to get all of the above features by stealing
them from the fortunate ones on your block.

Procedure:

Step 1) Find AT&T/BELL Can that is being used to service you surrounding area.

Step 2) Open can with Hex wrench.

Step 3) Find your line and another persons line who has 3-way, Call
(waiting/forwarding), if the # of all the lines are not listed in the box you
will have to use your local ANI to find them.

Step 4) Once you have found the lines then wire the (Black & Yellow) wires on
the victims line to the (Black & Yellow) wires on you line (Be sure your phone
at home uses all 4 wire as some of the cheap phones don't).

Step 5) Then disconnect the victims (Black & Yellow) Wires, resulting the the
loss of these features to their line ( you mat want to leave these wires
connected, this may or may not cause problems I haven't tried it that may yet).

Well That Sums It Up!

Procedure for easier extended Bud Box.

If if for some reason your line is disconnected, or you just want to use hook
someone's line to your line for fearless phreaking follow the procedure below.

Ok Go to the local can and find a line that is used by weekend visitors or a
summer/winter home, and hook their (Red & Green) Wires to your (Red & Green)
Wires, and your off into the fearless world of phreaking ( i recommend you
phreak from these line, so that the owners don't get uptight and look into the
matter), unless of course you are doing it for revenge!

Some Suggestions:

Take a Bud box Along to do a ANI just to make sure you have the right line,
also in some cases you will have to switch between the (Red/Green)
(Black/Yellow) or any other combination if your area has changed the standard
format which is very unlikely.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aqua Box Instructions

Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.' For
a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace. This box does
offer an escape route with simple directions to it. This box is quite a simple
concept, and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can
construct and use it.

The Lock In Trace
------------------
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone users
location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress. For those of
you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a breif
desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way
call connection. Then, when they get there, they can plug electricity into the
phone line. All phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of
electricity. That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when
you are calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you even after
you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand better about
that, for call waiting intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means
someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter of which voltage is
higher. When you push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to
the other side. When you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang
up unless one or both of them will hang up. If you try to hang up, voltage is
retained, and your phone will ring. That should give you an understanding of
how calling works. Also, when electricity passes through a certain point on
your phone, the electricity causes a bell to ring (or on some newer phones
an electronic ring to sound). So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow
must lower the voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every
time someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease a
little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting about
a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all be taken off the
hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the voltage level. That is
also why most three-way connections that are using the bell service three way
calling (which is only $3 ****[WHEN WAS THIS WRITTEN??]**** a month) become
quite faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept
up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out the F.B.I. voltage
machine, because it was only built to sustain the exact voltage nessecary to
keep the voltage out. For now, imagine this: one of the normal Radio Shack
generators that you can go pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into
the central box has a phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug.
This way, you can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So,
some modifications have to be done. ****[Scary, Huh??]****

Materials
----------
--A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type connection,
where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug into a light bulb.

--One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your own...
Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E. The central
box)

--Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to plug
the aqua box into)

--Some creativity and easy work.

*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't
go out and buy a new phone for it!

Procedure
----------
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having that is
you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the
electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock you in with.

1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have only
two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the electrical
appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter while
making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the top
of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...) then
just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold, you will see
that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in.
Those wires conduct the power into the appliance. So, you carefully unwrap
those from the sides and pull them out until they are about an inch ahead
of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the jack, then just rip the prongs
out. If you are, cover the prongs with insultation tape so they will not
connect with the wires when the power is being drained from the line.

2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires
evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other. If you
happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone,
stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After you've
wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with the
plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box or if
you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it. That box
is your ticket out of this.

3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty flimsy
connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at it then you
can solder away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some
kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector.
In order to use it, just keep this box handy. Plug it into the jack if you
want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you
plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if
it just seems fine then leave it.

Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this unless
the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug
your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. It will need
energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... The voltage to keep
a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should drain it all
in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at the same time. Happy boxing and
stay free!

_____________________________________________________________________________
****[...]**** are -CoR- comments ;)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

____________________________________________________________________
[ ]
[ The Assassin Box ]
[____________________________________________________________________]

After creating system crushers and line-noise inducers for so long, I decided
to make something that would really appeal to all the anarchists and phreaks out
there who enjoy terrorizing people through the phone.
Many months ago, I decided on this design as the "sure" thing to scare, or
even injure your enemies. The plans are simple, and easy to follow. Make sure
you read through once before you start.

Origin:

Well a couple of my friends and I always go out phreaking on weekend nights.
After using dayglo [bud, wire tap, test kit, etc.] boxes, we were bored and
decided to move on to telephone terrorism. There are many ways you can hurt
people through the common telephone, or cause havoc in the night. The following
designs suggest a few, and as always, they are ready for you to improve upon.
__________________________________________________________________________
Assassin Box and line-surge injuries
__________________________________________________________________________

Materials needed for construction of Assassin Box:

1. One[1] common car battery or battery of equal voltage, must be portable
2. At least eight[8] feet of tough copper wire, preferable insulated
3. An AT&T test kit, or a splitter box connector [alligator clips,etc.]
4. A gunny sack, or leather bag to put battery in
5. Wire stripper, or raw telephone cord- Grade "G" AT&T manufacture

There might be some extra stuff, I'll mention it in the construction.

Construction of Assassin box:

Step 1.

First, take the test kit and strip it of any overhanging wire or extra
material. You might want to clean it off. Now get out that battery and your
copper wire. You'll see two terminals on the test kit, look like this:

* *
A B

Where A=positive tip, and B=negative tip. Now take about 4 feet of copper wire
and wire the A terminal to the positive bolt on the battery. Make sure you've
grounded yourself, and you should be wearing some kind of protection against
electricity. Next wire the B terminal and the negative bolt with another four
feet of wire. Don't cross wires, and let it hang down [test kit] over the side
of a table, with your battery on the table. Wrap all connections with electric
tape, or solder them if you want to.

Step 2.

This is the important part. You now just about have a working box. Put it all
in the bag or sack, and carry it with you [along with your supplies] to your
victim's house. Go to the back of the house, or on the side where the Lighting
& Power register is [metal box]. Now near that you should find a little black,
grey, or green, sometimes white, box with a pop-off lid. Slide your hands
underneath and pull the cover off. Note: I've seen boxes where you have to
unscrew it first. Almost all of them have the BELL telephone logo on them. This
is the connection box, or trunk connection, that connects your house to Ma
Bell's network. Inside you will find four terminals...although some have five.
Here's how I label them.

* *
A B

*
E

* *
C D

Got it? Good... now look at the terminals closely. The ones for your use will be
C and D. Also, B and D might come in handy. The C terminal should be connected
to a red wire coming out of the house. The D should have a green. If they don't,
see which ones do. When you find them, get out your assassin box [battery and
test kit]. Now take the two prongs [alligator clips] and attach the red one to
the terminal with the red wire connected. Next take the green [or black] prong
and slip onto the terminal with the green wire connected. You now have an
operating assassin box. Just lay it down there, or bury it in the ground [that's
why it's in a sack].

Step 3.

This final step is just a bunch of helpful things to do to hide your great new
box.

1. If you haven't buried it, put grass all over and atop it. Make it look like
it's just a clump of grass, or a bush.

2. IF it's buried, try to tape the wires together [Note: If they're not
insulated, don't worry about this part. Make sure the battery is well covered
and moisture cannot get to it. This might call for wrapping it up in some form
of cellophane or plastic cover-all.

3. Put the cover BACK on the connection box, or close the door. If it has a
screwable cover, don't screw it back in. Just make sure it looks like it's
closed and secure.

4. Now stand back about ten feet, and see if it's visible. If it is, then do
what is feasible to protect it.

End of construction.

Line-surge injuries with the Assassin box:

The whole point of making an assassin box is to scare, or hurt your enemy. No
better way to do this than a shock of electricity right in the ear. Now the box
will send extra voltage through the line when your victim picks up the phone
[call coming through]. Note: this box sometimes causes funny effects, like
ringing a phone automatically [voltage surge], or messing up a call. But most of
the time it is effective.

Some sample scenarios:

1. He [your victim] picks up the phone to dial. He might notice a tingling
vibration in his hand. Dial tone might be filled with static. As soon as he
dials, the earpiece will fill with static, and voltage will be applied to the
reciever and earpiece of the phone. This usually results in a bad shock.

2. This is more common. He will pick up the phone, and touch the keypad. The
KEYPAD will shock him. Now when a line goes into the phone, direct current is
applied for your call, while alternating current rings the bell in the phone.
Your 120 or so applied volts will most likely stay resident in the bell or
keypad area. When a button is pushed, it will come in contact with the extra
voltage, thus shock.

3. Other things are always possible, like the destruction of vital circuitry in
the phone, which results in the defilement of the instrument.

Well, that's just about it for this time. The plans will be effective, unless
you build it wrong, and I shouldn't be blamed for your total lack of electronic
skills.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Beige Box Plans
-----------------
-------------Introduction-------------

Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least
once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked
phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did,
and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours. In the
following file we will give the construction and use of a Beige Box.

---------Construction and Use---------

The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the
red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary for
this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip.
Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a
grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it.
To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip. To the end of the green
wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed,
although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in
future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular
jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily
made, is inexpensive, usues common parts that are readily available, is small,
is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone.

------------Beige Box Uses------------
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you
must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of
Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching
centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell Telephone switching
apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle
nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local
hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s)
approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device
is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking
picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device.
Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires
connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be
labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -
if not labeled, usually on the right). Remember: Ring - red - right. The
"Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach
all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green
alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal. Note: If instead of a dial
tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not
touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By
this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the number you are
using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practicle aplications

o Eavesdropping
o Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends
o Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
o Phucking people over
o Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself ****[hehehehe]****
o Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
o Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.

:Eavesdropping: To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your
phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the
box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your
victim. When eavesdropping, it is allways best to be neither
seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic;
but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The
person will either have hung up or tried to complete their
call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps
you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would
like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI,
pull a CN/A on the number.

:Dialing Long Distance: This section is self explanitory,
but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA.

:Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing: Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and
you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBX's, since
PBX's often have poor reception and are more dificult to come by.

:Phucking People Over: This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using
the other topics described, you can create a large phone bill for the person
(they will not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In
addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave
your phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause of the
problem.

:Bothering the Operator: This is also self explanitary and can provide hours
of entertainment. Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not
like traced to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described
section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...

:Blue Boxing: See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an
especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the
calls are, once again, not traced to your line...

---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo, and
result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:

o Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
o Use more than one output device
o Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a
public BBS concering your occomplishments)
o In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is opened in
your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and you will be aware
of the fact that someone has intruded on your teritory.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
****[...]**** are -CoR- comments ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Black Box Plans
-----------------

Introduction:
------------
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20
Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings
the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts. The phone
company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10, they start
billing the person who called you.

Function:
--------
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts, so
that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled into thinking
you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller. However, after
about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious and disconnect your
line for about 10 seconds.

Materials:
---------
1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor
1 1.5V LED
1 SPST Switch

Procedure:
---------
(1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and lifting the
case off.

(2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working with
the Red Wire.

(3) Connect the following in parallel:
A. The Resistor and LED.
B. The SPST Switch.

In other words, you should end up with this:

(Red Wire)

!---/\/\/\--O--!
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
!-----_/_------!

/\/\/\ = Resistor
O = LED
_/_ = SPST

Use:
---
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is
off, your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings,
the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage is kept at
36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged.
When the box is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make
calls... ****[ :( ]****
*****[!!!!!!!!!!!]***** Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
****[...]**** are -CoR- comments ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How To Build A Black Box

To all who dare --

What is a black box? A black box is a device that is hooked up to your
fone that fixes your fone so that when you get a call, the caller doesn't get
charged for the call. This is good for calls up to 1/2 hour, after 1/2 hour
the fone co. gets suspicious, and then you can guess what happens.

The Way It Works:

What this little beauty does is keep the line voltage from dropping to
10v when you answer your fone. The line is insted kept at 36v and it will
make the fone think that it is still ringing while your talking. The reason
for the 1/2 hour time limit is that the fone co. thinks that something is
wrong after 1/2 an hour of ringing.

All parts are available Radio Shack. Using the least possible parts and
arangement, the cost is $0.98 !!!! And that is parts for two of them! Talk
about a deal! If you want to splurge then you can get a small pc board, and
a switch. There are two schematics for this box, one is for most normal
fones. The second one is for fones that don't work with the first. It was
made for use with a bell trimline touch tone fone.

** Schematic 1 for most fones **
** led on: box on **

from >--------------------green-> to
line >--! 1.8k led !---red--> fone
!--/\/\/\--!>--!
! !
------>/<-------
spst

parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
1 1.5v led
1 spst switch

You may just have two wires which you connect together for the switch.

** schematic 2 for all fones **
** led on: box off **

from >---------------green-> to
line >------- ---red--> fone
! led !
-->/<--!>--
! !
---/\/\/---
1.8k

parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
1 1.5v led
1 dpst switch

Here is the pc board layout that I recommend using. It is neat and is
very easy to hook up.

Schematic #1 Schematic #2

************** ****************
* * * ------- *
* --<led>--- * * ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! <switch> *
* resistor ! * * ! ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
* -------- ! * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! <led>! / *
* --switch-- * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
l * ! ! * f l * ! ! ! * f
i>red- -red>o i>red- ---red>o
n>-----green---->n n>-----green------>n
e * h * e e * * e
************** ****************

Once you have hooked up all the parts, you must figure out what set of
wires go to the line and which go to the fone. This is because of the fact
that led's must be put in, in a certain direction, depending on which way you
put the led is what controls what wires are for the line & fone.

How To Find Out:

Hook up the box in one direction using one set of wires for line and the
other for fone.

*NOTE* for model I switch should be off
*NOTE* for model II switch should be
Set to side connecting the led.

Once you have hooked it up, then pick up the fone and see if the led is
on. If it is, the led will be lit. If is doesn't light then switch the wires
and try again. Once you know which are which then label them. *NOTE* - if
neither directions worked then your switch was in the wrong position. Now
lable the switch in its current position as box on.

How To Use It:

The purpose of this box is not to poeple who call you so it would make
sense that it can only be used to receive calls. When the box is *on* then
you may only recieve calls. Your fone will ring like normal and the led on
the box will flash. If you answer the fone now, then the led will light and
the caller will not be charged. Hang up the fone after you are done talking
like normal. You will not be able to get a dial-tone or call when the box is
on, so turn the box *off* for normal calls. I don't recommend that you leave
it on all the time, as you don't want it to answer when Ma Bell calls!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Black Box 2

THIS TUTORIAL IS NOTABLE IN THAT IT IS TOTALLY AND
ABSOLUTELY WITHIN LEGAL BOUNDS. IT'S ONLY OBJECT IS TO
GUIDE YOU IN BUILDING A DEVICE WITH WHICH YOU CAN CONTROL,
ON MANY DIFFERENT LEVELS, YOUR HOME PHONE LINES. IT IS
DESIGNED PRIMARILY FOR TWO PHONE NUMBERS, ALTHOUGH I SUSPECT
THAT PROVISIONS FOR MORE THAN TWO CAN BE EASILY ADDED. WITH
IT, YOU CAN PUT ONE OR BOTH PHONE LINES ON HOLD WITH VISIBLE
INDICATORS OF EACH LINES STATUS; CONFERENCE CALL WITH TWO
PEOPLE; CHANGE A PHONE FROM LINE #1 TO LINE #2; AND LASTLY,
MAKE ONE PHONE LINE PHYSICALLY DEAD TO OUTSIDE WORLD. THIS IS
GOOD, FOR INSTANCE, IF YOU DON'T WANT TO RECIEVE ANY CALLS,
OR IF YOU WANT TO STOP SOMEONE FROM TALKING ON THAT LINE
REALLY QUICKLY.
THE CIRCUT IS RELATIVELY SIMPLE TO BUILD AND I BELIEVE
IT IS MUCH MORE ECONOMICAL THAN BUYING SOMETHING LIKE RADIO
SHACK'S LINE CONTROLLER. IT WILL REQUIRE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF
ELECTRONICS AND THE PHONE LINE IN GENERAL, BUT I DON'T THINK
THAT SHOULD BE A PROBLEM. I HAVE PERSONALLY FOUND MANY USES
FOR THE CONTROLLER, AND HAVE PUT IN INTO A PLEASANT "PROJECT
BOX" SO IT IS NOT AN EYESORE.
OK, NOW, LET'S START WITH THE PARTS LIST --------
============================================================
*** PARTS LIST ***

1. TWO PUSHBUTTON (ON-OFF) SWITCHES FOR HOLD
2. TWO LED'S FOR LINE STATUS INDICATION
3. ONE DPDT SWITCH FOR CONFERENCING
4. ONE SPST SWITCH FOR LINE SHUT OFF
5. ANOTHER DPDT SWITCH FOR PHONE LINE SWITCHING
6. GET SOME WIRE, YOU'LL NEED IT!
7. 2 MODULAR PHONE PLUGS WITH AT LEAST 10 FEET OF WIRE EACH
8. TWO 1.7K OHM RESISTGRS
9. *OPTIONAL* - PROJECT BOX
=============================================================
*** CONSTRUCTION ***

WE WILL TAKE THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE SWITCHBOX-CONTROLLER
IN PARTS. FIRST, THE HOLD SWITCHES AND STATUS INDICATORS. THE
FOLLOWING IS A DIAGRAM OF THE ESSENTIAL CIRCUT:

PUSHBUTTON #1 LED
--------------------------!X!-----0---
PHONE LINE #1 1.7K RESISTOR !
-----------------/!/!/!/!/------------

SOME WORD OF EXPLANATION IS IN ORDER. FIRST OF ALL, THE
SECOND PHONE LINE HOLD IS CONSTRUCTED THE SAME AS THE FIRST.
BASICALLY, THERE ARE TWO WIRES COME OUT OF YOUR PHONE LINE,
THE RED AND THE GREEN. YOU HAVE TO EXPERIMENT TO FIND OUT
WHICH ONE IS CONNECTED TO THE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH AND WHICH
ONE TO THE RESISTOR. TO DO THIS, JUST CONNECT IT IN ANY
WAY AND THEN TURN THE SWITCH ON. IF THE LED LIGHTS UP, YOU
CONNECTED IT RIGHT, OTHERWISE REVERSE THE CONNECTIONS.
GOT IT? GOOD, NOW DO THE SAME FOR LINE #2, FOLLOWING EXACTLY
THE SAME PROCEDURE.

NOW, LET'S DO AN EASY ONE. THIS WILL BE THE LINE BLACK-
OUT SWITCH. FIRST, DECIDE WHICH LINE YOU WISH TO BLACK OUT.
ACTUALLY, YOU CAN DO IT TO BOTH LINES IF YOU WISH, JUST GET
AN EXTRA SPST SWITCH. NOW, CONNECT THE SWITCH ACROSS THE LINE
AS FOLLOWS:

--------------------------------!!!!!!!!
X ! HOLD !
!X! <---SWITCH !CIRCUT!
X ! !
--------------------------------!!!!!!!!

DON'T WORRY THAT YOUR LINE CAN'T HANDLE BOTH CIRCUTS, IT CAN.
TO TEST OUT, PICK UP A PHONE ON THE LINE YOU HAVE CONNECTED
THE SWITCH TO AND FLIP IT ON. THERE SHOULD BE DEAD SILENCE.
NOW, TURN IT OFF. YOU SHOULD HEAR A DIAL TONE. YOU HAVE TO BE
AN ABSOLUTE IDIOT IF THIS DOESN'T WORK.

OK, LET'S SEE WHAT WE HAVE SO FAR. IF EVERYTHING IS
WORKING YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE TWO HOLD CIRCUTS AND A BLACK-
OUT SWITCH CONNECTED. NOW IT REALLY GETS TOUGH!

NEXT ON THE AGENDA IS THE CONFERENCE SWITCH. I HAVE A
FEW PRECAUTIONS FOR YOU ON THIS ONE. FIRST, YOU HAVE TO KNOW
WHAT YOU'RE DOING, AND SECOND, IT DOESN'T WORK THAT WELL. THE
REASON IT DOESN'T IS BECAUSE I AM NATURALLY VERY LAZY AND
DIDN'T FEEL LIKE ADDING THE NEEDED PHONE TRANSFORMER. BUT,
IT IS STILL GOOD FOR MANY USES, LIMITED ONLY BY YOUR IMAG-
INATION (TO USE A CLICHE').
FIRST, TAKE THE DOUBLE POLE DOUBLE THROW SWITCH INTO YOUR
HAND. IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS ON THE BACK:

---------
- 1 2 -
- 3 4 -
- 5 6 -
---------
* NOTE - NUMBERS CORRESPOND TO ACTUAL PINS.
NOW CONNECT TWO WIRES TO PINS 3 & 4 AND TWO WIRES TO PINS
1 & 2. THE WIRES GOING TO PINS ONE AND TWO ARE CONNECTED
ACROSS THE FIRST PHONE LINE AND THE WIRES FROM THREE AND
FOUR GO ACROSS THE SECOND PHONE LINE. TEST IT OUT: PICK
UP YOUR PHONE (EITHER LINE) AND WAIT FOR DIAL TONE. THEN
THROW ON THE CONFERENCE SWITCH. YOU SHOULD GET A SECOND
DIAL TONE. NOW DIAL 555-1212. YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE TWO
D.A.'S ON THE LINE, ASKING EACH OTHER "WHAT CITY?". IF NOT,
THEN REVERSE THE CONNECTIONS TO PHONE LINE #1 OR #2, IT
DOESN'T MATTER. NOW IT SHOULD WORK. IF NOT, THEN RECHECK
EVERYTHING! YOU MESSED UP!

NOW FOR THE LAST SECTION - THE PHONE LINE SWITCHER. WITH
THIS, YOU CAN CONNECT A PHONE DIRECTLY TO THE SWITCHBOX AND
HAVE IT OPERATE FROM LINE #1 OR LINE #2, DEPENDING ON THE
POSITION OF THE LAST DPDT SWITCH. LET ME EMPHASIZE THAT THIS
IS OPTIONAL. ACTUALLY, ALL THE CIRCUTS ARE - THEY ARE IN-
DEPENDENT OF EACH OTHER AND EACH CAN BE BUILT SEPARATLY OR
TOGETHER.
NOW, REFERING TO THE DIAGRAM OF THE DPDT SWITCH ABOVE:
CONNECT TWO WIRES TO PINS 1 & 2. THEN CONNECT THESE TO PHONE
LINE #1. NOW CONNECT TWO WIRES TO 5 & 6 AND CONNECT THESE TO
PHONE LINE # 2. LASTLY, CONNECT TWO WIRES TO 3 & 4 AND CON-
NECT THE ENDS OF THESE TO A PHONE. THAT'S IT! NOW, PICK UP
THE PHONE AND YOU SHOULD HEAR A DIAL TONE. THROW THE SWITCH
AND YOU SHOULD HEAR ANOTHER DIAL TONE. IN SOME AREAS YOU MAY
DIAL '958' TO HEAR EXACTLY WHAT NUMBER YOU ARE CURRENTLY
CONNECTED TO, BUT THAT SHOULD BE A PROBLEM. IF YOU REALLY
CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT, THEN EITHER TRACE THE CIRCUT BACK OR
CALL ONE OF THE NUMBERS AND SEE IF YOU GET A BUSY SIGNAL OR
IF IT RINGS.

FINALLY - PUT THE WHOLE MESS INSIDE A PROJECT CASE, UNLESS
YOU LIKE THE SITE OF WIRES ALL OVER THE PLACE. THIS ALSO
SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM IF YOU KNOW EVEN THE BASICS OF
HARDWARE CONSTRUCTION.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B L A S T B O X

Ever want to really make yourself be heard? Ever talk to someone on the phone
who just doesn't shut up? Or just call the operator and pop her eardrum? Well,
Up until recently it has been impossible for you to do theese things. That is,
unless of course you've got a blast box. All a blast box is, is a really cheap
amplifier, (around 5 watts or so) connected in place of the microphone on your
telephone. It works best on model 500 AT&T Phones, and if constructed small
enough, can be placed inside the phone.

Construction:
Construction is not really important. Well it is, but since I'm letting you
make your own amp, I really don't have to include this.

Usage:
Once you've built your blast box, simply connect a microphone (or use the
microphone from the phone) to the input of the amplifier, and presto. There it
is.
Now, believe it or not, this device actually works. (At least on crossbar.) It
seems that illinois bell switching systems allow quite alot of current to pass
right through the switching office, and out to whoever you're calling. When
you talk in the phone, it comes out of the other phone (again it works best if
the phone that you're calling has the standard western electric earpiece)
incredibly loud. This device is espicially good for PBS Subscription drives.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*--

For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function of
it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible.
Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally
available to the public.

All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box
and it's function.

The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its
knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone
lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that
matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will not stop
at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical impulses that emit
from this box will open every line. Every line will ring and ring and ring...
the voltage will never be cut off until the box/generator is stopped. This is
no 200 volt job, here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue
to ring, and people close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the
phone. ****[hmmm... nifty... ;) ]****

But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or
generator. If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial
aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is not advised! The
Blotto Box will continue as long as there is electricity to continue with.

OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you to
do with it...

-*-=>Blotto Functions/Installin'<=-*-

Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box. Please
read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt to
construct this box.

Materials:
- A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a
stadium or some such place.
- A radm r=L L5I Z] ] for 400 volts that splices a female
plug into a phone line jack.
- A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
- A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that
you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch
boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area
code!
- A soldering iron and much souder.
- A remote control or long wooden pole.

Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of the
other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make sure it is
one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at
the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything convienent, if you are
two feeble, than _FUCK_!, DON'T TRY THIS! Take a look inside... you are
hunting for color-coordinating lines of green and red. Now, take out your
radio shack cord and rip the meter thing off. Replace it with the voltage
meter about. A good level to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now,
attach the voltage meter to the cord and set the limit for one thousand.
Plug the other end of the cord into the generator. Take the phone jack and
splice the jack part off. Open it up and match the red and green wires with
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on and have
done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter. Keep the
generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those lines together
carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all of the wires. Now,
place the remote control right on to the startup of the generator. If you have
the long pole, make sure it is very long and stand back as far away as you can
get and reach the pole over. NOTICE: If you are going right along with this
without reading the file first, you sill realize now that your area code is
about to become null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and
run for your damn life. ****[AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH! _RUN_!!]****
Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity
that if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator will smoke,
etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your area code, because all of
that energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around you in every
direction.
_______________________________________________________________________________

****[...]**** are -CoR- comments ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUE BOXiNG

To quote Karl Marx, blue boxing has
always been the most noble form of
phreaking. As opposed to such things as
using an MCI code to make a free fone
call, which is merely mindless
pseudo-phreaking, blue boxing is actual
interaction with the Bell System toll
network. It is likewise advisable to be
more cautious when blue boxing, but the
careful phreak will not be caught,
regardless of what type of switching
system he is under.
In this part, I will explain how and
why blue boxing works, as well as
where. In later parts, I will give more
practical information for blue boxing
and routing information.
To begin with, blue boxing is simply
communicating with trunks. Trunks must
not be confused with subscriber lines
(or "customer loops") which are
standard telefone lines. Trunks are
those lines that connect central
offices. Now, when trunks are not in
use (i.e., idle or "on-hook" state)
they have 2600Hz applied to them. If
they are two-way trunks, there is
2600Hz in both directions. When a trunk
IS in use (busy or "off-hook" state),
the 2600Hz is removed from the side
that is off-hook. The 2600Hz is
therefore known as a supervisory
signal, because it indicates the status
of a trunk; on hook (tone) or off-hook
(no tone). Note also that 2600Hz
denoted SF (single frequency)
signalling and is "in-band." This is
very important. "In-band" means that is
is within the band of frequencies that
may be transmitted over normal telefone
lines. Other SF signals, such as 3700Hz
are used also. However, they cannot be
carried over the telefone network
normally (they are "out-of-band" and
are therefore not able to be taken
advantage of as 2600Hz is.
Back to trunks. Let's take a
hypothetical phone call. You pick up
your fone and dial 1+806-258-1234 (your
good friend in Amarillo, Texas). For
ease, we'll assume that you are on #5
Crossbar switching and not in the 806
area. Your central office (CO) would
recognize that 806 is a foreign NPA, so
it would route the call to the toll
centre that serves you. [For the sake
of accuracy here, and for the more
experienced readers, note that the CO
in question is a class 5 with LAMA that
uses out-of-band SF supervisory
signalling]. Depending on where you are
in the country, the call would leave
your toll centre (on more trunks) to
another toll centre, or office of
higher "rank". Then it would be routed
to central office 806-258 eventually
and the call would be completed.

Illustration

A---CO1-------TC1------TC2----CO2----B

A.... you CO1=your central office
TC1.. your toll office.
TC2.. toll office in Amarillo.
CO2.. 806-258 central office.
B.... your friend (806-258-1234)

In this situation it would be
realistic to say that CO2 uses SF
in-band (2600Hz) signalling, while all
the others use out-of-band signalling
(3700Hz). If you don't understand this,
don't worry too much. I am pointing
this out merely for the sake of
accuracy. The point is that while you
are connected to 806-258-1234, all
those trunks from YOUR central office
(CO1) to the 806-258 central office
(CO2) do *NOT* have 2600Hz on them,
indicating to the Bell equipment that a
call is in progress and the trunks are
in use.
Now let's say you're tired of talking
to your friend in Amarillo, so you send
a 2600Hz down the line. This tone
travels down the line to your friend's
central office (CO2) where it is
detected. However, that CO thinks that
the 2600Hz is originating from Bell
equipment, indicating to it that you've
hung up, and thus the trunks are once
again idle (with 2600Hz present on
them). But actually, you have not hung
up, you have fooled the equipment at
your friend's CO into thinking you
have. Thus,it disconnects him and
resets the equipment to prepare for the
next call. All this happens very
quickly (300-800ms for step-by-step
equipment and 150-400ms for other
equipment).
When you stop sending 2600Hz (after
about a second), the equipment thinks
that another call is coming towards
--> on hook, no tone -->off hook. Now
that you've stopped sending 2600Hz,
several things happen:

1) A trunk is seized.

2) A "wink" is sent to the CALLING end
from the CALLED end indicating that
the CALLED end (trunk) is not ready to
receive digits yet.

3) A register is found and attached
to the CALLED end of the trunk within
about two seconds (max).

4) A start-dial signal is sent to the
CALLING end from the CALLED end
indicating that the CALLED end is
ready to receive digits.

Now, all of this is pretty much
transparent to the blue boxer. All he
really hears when these four things
happen is a <beep><kerchunk>. So,
seizure of a trunk would go something
like this:

1> Send a 2600Hz
2> Terminate 2600Hz after 1-2 secs.
3> [beep][kerchunk]

Once this happens, you are connected
to a tandem that is ready to obey your
every command. The next step is to send
signalling information in order to
place your call. For this you must
simulate the signalling used by
operators and automatic toll-dialing
equipment for use on trunks. There are
mainly two systems, DP and MF. However,
DP went out with the dinosaurs, so I'll
only discuss MF signalling. MF
(multi-frequency) signalling is the
signalling used by the majority of the
inter- and intra-lata network. It is
also used in international dialing
known as the CCITT no.5 system.
MF signals consist of 7 frequecies,
beginning with 700Hz and separated by
200Hz. A different set of two of the 7
frequencies represent the digits 0 thru
9, plus an additional 5 special keys.
The frequencies and uses are as
follows:

Frequencies (Hz) Domestic Int'l
-------------------------------------
700+900 1 1
700+1100 2 2
900+1100 3 3
700+1300 4 4
900+1300 5 5
1100+1300 6 6
700+1500 7 7
900+1500 8 8
1100+1500 9 9
1300+1500 0 0

700+1700 ST3p Code 1
900+1700 STp Code 1
1100+1700 KP KP1
1300+1700 ST2p KP2
1500+1700 ST ST

The timing of all the MF signals is a
nominal 60ms, except for KP, which
should have a duration of 100ms. There
should also be a 60ms silent period
between digits. This is very flexible
however, and most Bell equipment will
accept outrageous timings.
In addition to the standard uses
listed above, MF pulsing also has
expanded usages known as "expanded
inband signalling" that include such
things as coin collect, coin return,
ringback, operator attached, and
operator attached, and operator
released. KP2, code 11, and code 12 and
the ST_ps (STart "primes" all have
special uses which will be mentioned
only briefly here.
To complete a call using a blue box
once seizure of a trunk has been
accomplished by sending 2600Hz and
pausing for the <beep><kerchunk>, one
must first send a KP. This readies the
register for the digits that follow.
For a standard domestic call, the KP
would be followed by either 7 digits
(if the call were in the same NPA as
the seized trunk) or 10 digits (if the
call were not in the same NPA as the
seized trunk). [Exactly like dialing
normal fone call]. Following either the
KP and 7 or 10 digits, a STart is sent
to signify that no more digits follow.

Example of a complete call:

1> Dial 1-806-258-1234
2> wait for a call-progress
indication (such as ring, busy,
recording, etc.)
3> Send 2600Hz for about 1 second.
4> Wait for about ll-progress
indication (such as ring, busy,
recording, etc.)
5> Send KP+305+994+9966+ST

The call will then connect if every
thing was done properly. Note that if a
call to an 806 number were being placed
in the same situation, the are code
would be omitted and only KP + seven
digits + ST would be sent.
Code 11 and code 12 are used in
international calling to request
certain types of operators. KP2 is used
in international calling to route a
call other than by way of the normal
route, whether for economic or
equipment reasons.
STp, ST2p, and ST3p (prime, two
prime, and three prime) are used in
TSPS signalling to indicate calling
type of call (such as coin-direct
dialed).

This has been Part I of Better Homes
and Blue Boxing. I hope you enjoyed and
learned from it. If you have any
questions, comments, threats or
insults, please fell free to drop me a
line. If you have noticed any errors in
this text (yes, it does happen), please
let me know and perhaps a correction
will be in order. Part II will deal
mainly with more advanced principles of
blue boxing, as well as routings and
operators.

Note 1: other highly trunkable areas
include: 816,305,813,609,205. I
personally have excellent luck boxing
off of 609-953-0000. Try that if you
have any trouble.
The Lame Boxing Menu

A. Aqua J. Green
B. Beige K. Olive ****[<====What the hell is this??]****
C. Black L. Pearl
D. Blotto M. Pink
E. Blue N. Red
F. Brown O.
_______________________________________________________________________________
****[...]**** are -CoR- comments ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BBBB L U U EEEEE BBBB OOOO X X
B B L U U E B B O O X X
B B L U U EEE B B O O X
B B L U U E B B O O X X
BBBB LLLL UUUU EEEEE BBBB OOOO X X

THIS BULLETIN WILL DEAL ONLY WITH THE BASIC CONTRUCTION,
TROUBLESHOOTING AND ADJUSTMENT OF THE BLUE BOX. IF YOU WOULD
LIKE TO KNOW THE SPECIFIC JOB OF ANY PART IN THE CIRCUIT
JUST WRITE ME A MSG AND I WILL BE GLAD TO ANSWER IT.

WE ALL KNOW THAT THE TOUCH TONES FREQUENCIES ARE COMPOSED
OF TWO TONES (TWO DIFFERENT FREQS.) SO THAT IS THE REASON
WHY WE HAVE 2 VCO'S ( VOLTAGE CONTROLLED OSCILATORS). WE
WILL CALL THESE VCO#1 AND VCO#2. IF YOU HAVE NOTICED VCO#1
ANS VCO#2 ARE EXACTLY THE SAME TYPE OF CIRCUITS. THAT IS
WHY ONLY ONE WAS DRAWN. BUT REMEMBER THAT WHATEVER GOES
FOR VCO#1 ALSO GOES FOR VCO#2. BOTH VCO'S ARE COMPOSED OF
A HANDFULL OF PARTS. ONE CHIP TWO CAPACITORS 2 RESISTORS
AND FIVE POTENTIOMETERS. ALL OF THIS WILL GIVE YOU (WHEN
PROPERLY CALIBRATED) ONE OF THE FREQS. NECESSARY (THE OTHER
ONE WILL COME FROM VCO#2) FOR THE OPERATION OF THE BB. BOTH
OF THESE FREQS. WILL BE MIXED IN THE SPEAKER THUS FORMING
THE REQUIRED TONE.

THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST SOPHISTICATED DESIGNS I HAVE EVER
MADE. WHY? BECAUSE OTHER DESIGNS WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY
AFTER 10 CALLS! THIS DESIGN WILL MAKE THEM LAST 10
MONTHS!!!!!!. BUT NEVER THE LESS DON'T FORGET TO PUT IN A
SWITCH FOR ON AND OFF. OK LET'S BUILD THE TWO VCO'S AND
CALIBRATE THE UNIT BEFORE WE GET TO THE KEYBOARD
CONTRUCTION.

VCO CONTRUCTION
=== ===========
TOOLS REQUIRED

1 OCILLISCOPE (RECOMENDED BUT NOT REQUIRED)
1 FREQ. COUNTER (REQUIRED)
1 VOLT METER " " "
ELECTRONICS TOOLS (PLIERS,DRILL, SCREWDRIVERS, ETC)

PARTS

R1 1.5K RESISTOR 5%
R2 1K RESISTOR 5%
C1 .1UF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR 16VDC
C2 .01UF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (MYLAR) 16VDC
IC1 2207 VCO CHIP BY EXAR ELECTRINICS
REMEMBER THE ABOVE IT IS ONLY FOR VCO#1 BUT THE SAME GOES FOR VCO#2.

R3-R4 150 OHM RESISTORS 5%
C3-C4 .1 UF ELECTROLITIC CAPACITOR 10VDC
P1-P10 200K TRIMMER POT - 20 TURNS
DIODES USED IN THE KEYBOARD ARE 1N914 TYPE (40 OF THEM)
AND 13 SWITCHES FOR THE KEYBOARD SPST. MOMENTARY.

SPKR= YOU CAN USE A TELEPHONE SPEAKER FOR THIS(IT WORKS BEST)
BUT REMEMBER TO TAKE OUT THE DIODE THAT IS CONNECTED ACCROSS IT.
***********************************************************
IMPORTANT NOTES

1. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE THAN A MYLAR CAPACITOR FOR C2
2. PINS 10,9,8 SHOULD BE TIED TOGETHER AND BE LEFT FLOATING.
3. ALL RESISTOR SHOULD BE 5%! NOTHING ELSE
4. A TELEPHONE SPEAKER GIVES THE BEST RESULTS
***********************************************************

TROUBLE SHOOTING

BY NOW YOU SHOULD HAVE CONSTRUCTED THE TWO VCO'S ON A BREAD
BOARD OR ANYTHING THAT PLEASES YOU.

CHECK FOR COLD SOLDER JOINTS, BROKEN WIRES, POLARITY OF THE
BATTERY, ETC.........

BEFORE WE APPLY POWER TO THE VCO'S WE HAVE TO ADJUST THE
POTS FOR THEIR HALF WAY TRAVEL POINT. THIS IS DONE BY
TURNING THEM 21 TURNS TO THE RIGHT AND THEN 10 TURNS TO THE
LEFT. DO THE SAME FOR ALL TEN OF THEM.

NOW APPLY POWER TO THE UNIT CHECK TO SEE THAT YOU HAVE
POWER IN THE CHIPS BY PUTTING THE POSITIVE LEAD OF YOUR
VOLT METER ON PIN 7 AND THE NEGATIVE LEAD ON PIN 12. IF YOU
DON'T HAVE ANYTHING THERE TURN OFF THE UNIT ANT RECHECK THE
WIRING.

WHEN YOU GET THE RIGHT VOLTAGES ON THE CHIPS, CONNECT A
DIODE TO A PIECE OF WIRE (LOOK AT FIG. 2 FOR THE
ORIENTATION OF THE DIODE) FROM GROUND TO ANY POT AT POINT T
(LOOK CAREFULLY AT THE SCHEMATIC FOR POINT T IT IS LABELED
T1-T10 FOR ALL POTS) YOU SHOLD BE ABLE TO HEAR A TONE, IF
NOT DISSCONNECT THE LEAD AND PLACE THE SPEAKER CLOSE TO
YOUR EAR AND IF YOU HEAR A CHIRP LIKE SOUND, THIS MEANS
THAT THE TWO VCO'S ARE WORKING IF YOU DON'T, IT MEANS THAT
EITHER ONE OR BOTH OF THE VCO'S IS DEAD. SO IN THIS CASE
IT IS ALLWAYS GOOD TO HAVE AN OCILLOSCOPE ON HAND.

DISCONNECT THE SPEAKER FROM THE CIRCUIT AND HOOKUP THE
OCILLISCOPE TO ONE OF THE LEADS OF THE SPEAKER AND THE
GROUND FROM THE SCOPE TO THE GROUND OF THE BATTERY.
CONNECT AGAIN THE GROUND LEAD WITH THE DIODE CONNECTED TO
IT FROM GROUND TO ANY POT ON THE VCO THAT YOU ARE CHECKING
AND YOU SHOULD SEE A TRIANGLE WAVE IF NOT TURN THE POT IN
WICH YOU ARE APPLYING THE GROUND TO UNTIL YOU SEE IT. WHEN
YOU DO SEE IT DO THE THE SAME FOR THE OTHER VCO TO MAKE
SURE IT IS WORKING. (AMPLITUDE IS ABOUT 2VAC)

WHEN YOU GET THE TWO VCO'S WORKING YOU ARE SET FOR THE
ADJUSTMENT OF THE INDIVIDUALS POTS...

ADJUSTMENT

DISCONNECT THE SPEAKER FROM THE CIRCUIT AND CONNECT A FREQ.
COUNTER (THE POSITIVE LEAD OF THE COUNTER TO ONE OF THE
SPEAKERS LEADS THAT BELONGS TO VCO#1 OR CONNECT IT TO PIN
14).

CONNECT THE NEGATIVE LEAD TO THE BATTERY NEGATIVE AND
CONNECT THE JUMPER LEAD WITH THE DIODE FROM GROUND TO POT
NUMBER 1 T1 .( THE FIRST POT NUMBER 1 POINT T1) IF YOU GOT
IT WORKING YOU SHOULD HEAR A TONE AND GET A READING ON
THECOUNTER. ADJUST THE POT FOR A FREQ. OF 1700HZ AND
CONTINUE DOING THE SAME FOR POTS 2-5 EXCEPT THAT THEY GET
DIFFERENTS FREQS.

P1= 1700HZ
P2= 1300HZ
P3= 1100HZ
P4= 900HZ
P5= 1500HZ

NOW DISCONNECT THE FREQ. COUNTER FROM THE SPEAKER LEAD OF
VCO#1 OR FROM PIN 14 (WHICH EVER YOU HAD IT ATTACHED TO AT
THE BEGINNING) AND CONNECT IT TO THE SPAKER LEAD OF VCO#2
OR TO PIN 14 OF VCO#2 AND PERFORM THE SAME ADJUSTMENTS TO
P6-10.

P6= 1100HZ
P7= 700HZ
P8= 900HZ
P9= 2600HZ MAGIC NUMBER!!!!!
P10= 1500HZ

WHEN YOU FINISH DOING ALL OF THE POT GO BACK AND RECHECK THEM AGAIN.

KEYBOARD
IF YOU LOOK AT FIG-2 YOU WILL SEE THAT THE KEYS ARE SIMPLE
SWITCHES CONNECTED TO GROUND AND TWO DIODES ON THE OTHER
END. THESE DIODES ARE USED TO SIMPLIFY THE CONSTRUCTION OF
THE KEYBOARD BECAUSE OTHERWISE THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE
GROUND SIGNAL FOR BOTH VCO'S WOULD HAVE BEEN DONE
MECHANICALLY. ONE DIODE WILL GO TO VCO#1 AND THE OTHER
WILL GO TO VCO#2. FIG-3 SHOWS THE ARRANGEMENT OF THE KEYS
ON THE KEYBOARD.

BELOW IS A TABLE THAT WILL HELP YOU CONNECT THE KEYS TO
REQUIRED VCO'S POTS.

TO TO
FREQ OUT FREQ OUT
KEY POT ON VCO1 POT ON VCO
2 PIN 14 VCO1 PIN 14 VCO
C 1 6
1700 1100
0 2 10
1300 1500
E 1 10
1700 1500
1 4 7
900 700
2 3 7
1100 700
3 3 8
1100 900
4 2 7
1300 700
5 2 8
1300 900
6 2 6
1300 1100
7 5 7
1500 700
8 5 8
1500 900
9 5 6
1500 1100
X - 9
---- 2600

***********************************************************
REMEMBER THAT FIG-2 IT IS THE SAME FOR EACH KEY EXCEPT THE
"X" WHICH ONLY TAKES ONE DIODE.
***********************************************************
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE
BLUEBOX

THE "BLUE BOX" WAS SO NAMED BECAUSE OF THE COLOR OF THE FIRST ONE FOUND.
THE DESIGN AND HARDWARE USED IN THE BLUE BOX IS FAIRLY SOPHISTICATED, AND
ITS SIZE VARIES FROM A LARGE PIECE OF EQUIPMENT TO THE SIZE OF A PACK OF
CIGARETTES.

THE BLUE BOX CONTAINS 12 OR 13 BUTTONS OR SWITCHES THAT EMIT MULTI-
FREQUENCY TONES CHARACTERISTIC OF THE TONES USED IN THE NORMAL OPERATION OF
THE TELEPHONE TOLL (LONG DISTANCE) SWITCHING NETWORK. THE BLUE BOX ENABLES
THE USER TO PLACE PHREE LONG DISTANCE CALLS BY CIRCUMVENTING TOLL BILLING
EQUIPMENT. THE BLUE BOX MAY BE DIRECTLY CONNECTED TO A PHONE LINE,
OR IT MAY BE ACOUSTICALLY COUPLED TO A TELEPHONE HANDSET BY PLACING THE
BLUE BOX'S SPEAKER NEXT TO THE TRANSMITTER OR THE TELEPHONE HANDSET.

TO UNDERSTAND THE NATURE OF A FRAUDULENT BLUE BOX CALL, IT IS
NECESSARY TO UNDERSTAND THE BASIC OPERATION OF THE DIRECT DISTANCE
DIALING (DDD) TELEPHONE NETWORK. WHEN A DDD CALL IS PROPERLY ORIGINATED, THE
CALLING NUMBER IS IDENTIFIED AS AN INTEGRAL PART OF ESTABLISHING THE
CONNECTION. THIS MAY BE DONE EITHER AUTOMATICALLY OR, IN SOME CASES, BY AN
OPERATOR ASKING THE CALLING PARTY FOR HIS TELEPHONE NUMBER. THIS INFORMATION
IS ENTERED ON A TAPE IN THE AUTOMATIC MESSAGE ACCOUNTING (AMA) OFFICE. THIS
TAPE ALSO CONTAINS THE NUMBER ASSIGNED TO THE TRUNK LINE OVER WHICH THE CALL
IS TO BE SENT. THE INFORMATION RELATING TO THE CALL CONTAINED ON THE TAPE
INCLUDES: CALLED NUMBER INDENTIFICATION, TIME OF ORIGINATION OF CALL, AND INFO
THAT THE CALLED NUMBER ANSWERED THE CALL AND TIME OF DISCONNECT AT THE END
OF THE CALL.

ALTHOUGH THE TAPE CONTAINS INFO WITH RESPECT TO MANY DIFFERENT CALLS, THE
VARIOUS DATA ENTRIES WITH RESPECT TO A SINGLE CALL ARE EVENTUALLY CORRELATED
TO PROVIDE BILLING INFO FOR USE BY YOUR BELL'S ACCOUNTING DEPARTMENT.

THE TYPICAL BLUE BOX USER USUALLY DIALS A NUMBER THAT WILL ROUTE THE CALL
INTO THE TELEPHONE NETWORK WITHOUT CHARGE. FOR EXAMPLE, THE USER WILL VERY
OFTEN CALL A WELL-KNOWN INWATS (TOLL-FREE) CUSTOMER'S NUMBER. THE BLUE BOX
USER, AFTER GAINING THIS ACCESS TO THE NETWORK AND, IN EFFECT, "SEIZING"
CONTROL AND COMPLETE DOMINION OVER THE LINE, OPERATES A KEY ON THE BLUE BOX
WHICH EMITS A 2600 HERTZ (CYCLES PER SECOND) TONE. THIS TONE CAUSES THE
SWITCHING EQUIPMENT TO RELEASE THE CONNECTION TO THE INWATS CUSTOMER'S LINE.
THE 2600HZ TONE IS A SIGNAL THAT THE CALLING PARTY HAS HUNG UP. THE BLUE BOX
SIMULATES THIS CONDITION. HOWEVER, IN FACT THE LOCAL TRUNK ON THE CALLING
PARTY'S END IS STILL CONNECTED TO THE TOLL NETWORK. THE BLUE BOX USER NOW
OPERATES THE "KP" (KEY PULSE) KEY ON THE BLUE BOX TO NOTIFY THE TOLL SWITCH-
ING EQUIPMENT THAT SWITCHING SIGNALS ARE ABOUT TO BE EMITTED. THE USER THEN
PUSHES THE "NUMBER" BUTTONS ON THE BLUE BOX CORRESPONDING TO THE TELEPHONE #
BEING CALLED. AFTER DOING SO HE/SHE USES THE "ST" (START) KEY TO TELL
THE SWITCHING EQUIPMENT THAT SIGNALLING IS COMPLETE. IF THECALL IS COMPLETED, ONLY THE PORTION OF THE ORIGINAL CALL PRIOR TO THE 'BLAST' OF 2600HZ TONE IS RECORDED ON THE AMA TAPE. THE TONES EMITTED BY THE BLUE BOX ARE NOT RECORDED ON THE AMA TAPE. THEREFOR

ALTHOUGH THE ABOVE IS A DESCRIPTION OF A TYPICAL BLUE BOX CALL USING A
COMMON WAY OF GETTING INTO THE NETWORK, THE OPERATION OF A BLUE BOX MAY VARY IN ANY ONE OR ALL OF THE PHOLLOWING RESPECTS:

(A) THE BLUE BOX MAY INCLUDE A ROTARY DIAL TO APPLY THE 2600HZ TONE
AND THE SWITCHING SIGNALS. THIS TYPE OF BLUE BOX IS CALLED A "DIAL PULSER" OR "ROTARY SF" BLUE BOX.

(B) GETTING INTO THE DDD TOLL NETWORK MAY BE DONE BY CALLING ANY
OTHER TOLL-FREE # SUCH AS UNIVERSAL DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE (555-1212) OR ANY NUMBER IN THE INWATS NETWORK, EITHER INTER-STATE OR INTRA-STATE, WORKING OR NON-WORKING.

(C) ENTRANCE INTO THE DDD TOLL NETWORK MAY ALSO BE IN THE FORM OF
"SHORT HAUL" CALLING. A "SHORT HAUL" CALL IS A CALL TO ANY # WHICH WILL RESULT IN A LESSER AMOUNT OF TOLL CHARGES THAN THE CHARGES FOR THE CALL
TO BE COMPLETED BY THE BLUE BOX. FOR EXAMPLE, A CALL TO BIRMINGHAM FROM
ATLANTA MAY COST $.80 FOR THE FIRST 3 MINUTES WHILE A CALL FROM ATLANTA TO
LOS ANGELES IS $1.85 FOR 3 MINUTES. THUS, A SHORT HAUL, 3-MINUTE CALL TO
BIRMINGHAM FROM ATLANTA, SWITCHED BY USE OF A BLUE BOX TO LOS ANGELES, WOULD
RESULT IN A NET FRAUD OF $1.05 FOR A 3 MINUTE CALL.

(D) A BLUE BOX MAY BE WIRED INTO THE TELEPHONE LINE OR ACOUSTICALLY
COUPLED BY PLACING THE SPEAKER OF THE BLUE BOX NEAR THE TRANSMITTER OF THE PHONE HANDSET. THE BLUE BOX MAY EVEN BE BUILT INSIDE A REGULAR TOUCH-TONE PHONE, USING THE PHONE'S PUSHBUTTONS FOR THE BLUE BOX'S SIGNALLING TONE.

(E) A MAGNETIC TAPE RECORDING MAY BE USED TO RECORD THE BLUE BOX
TONES FOR CERTAIN PHONE NUMBERS. THIS WAY, IT'S LESS CONSPICOUS TO USE SINCE YOU JUST MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A WALKMAN OR WHATEVER, INSTEAD OF A BOX.

ALL BLUE BOXES, EXCEPT "DIAL PULSE" OR "ROTARY SF" BLUE BOXES, MUST HAVE
THE FOLLOWING 4 COMMON OPERATING CAPABILITIES:

(A) IT MUST HAVE SIGNALLING CAPABILITY IN THE FORM OF A 2600HZ
TONE. THIS TONE IS USED BY THE TOLL NETWORK TO INDICATE, EITHER BY ITS PRESENCE OR ITS ABSENCE, AN "ON HOOK" (IDLE) OR "OFF HOOK" (BUSY) CONDITION
OF THE TRUNK.

(B) THE BLUE BOX MUST HAVE A "KP" TONES THAT UNLOCKS OR READIES THE
MULTI-FREQUENCY RECIEVER AT THE CALLED END TO RECEIVE THE TONES CORRESPONDING TO THE CALLED PHONE #.

(C) THE TYPICAL BLUE BOX MUST BE ABLE TO EMIT MF TONES WHICH ARE USED TO
TRANSMIT PHONE #'S OVER THE TOLL NETWORK. EACH DIGIT OF A PHONE # IS
REPRESENTED BY A COMBINATION OF 2 TONES. FOR EXAMPLE, THE DIGIT 2 IS X-MITTED
BY A COMBINATION OF 700HZ AND 1100HZ.

(D) THE BLUE BOX MUST HAVE AN "ST" KEY WHICH CONSISTS OF A COMBINA-
TION OF 2 TONES THAT TELL THE EQUIPMENT AT THE CALLED END THAT ALL DIGITS HAVE BEEN SENT AND THAT THE EQUIPMENT SHOULD START SWITCHING THE CALL TO THE CALLED NUMBER.

THE "DIAL PULSER" OR "ROTARY SF" BLUE BOX REQUIRES ONLY A DIAL WITH A SIGNALLING CAPABILITY TO PRODUCE A 2600HZ TONE.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLUE BOX HELP
SO...WANNA BLUE BOX EH? WELL LETS SEE...WE NEED A BOX THAT IS BLUE...WE NEED
SOME TONES, A PAD WOULD HELP...AND SOME POWER...OK...

FIRST OF ALL...YOU NEED A NUMBER TO BLOW OFF(WISTLE 2600 HTZ OR USE YOUR TSPS
PROGRAM...IF YOU DONT HAVE IT YOU BEST WRITE ME IMMEADIATELY...I WILL GIVE IT
TO YOU...OK A GOOD # TO DO YOUR LITTLE TONE ON IS 1-514-555-1212...CANADA
INFORMATION...OR IF YOU GET A GOOD LINE 1-800-858-9000...I LIKE THAT # ITS A
LOT OF PHUN...YOU CAN USE IT AS A WATTS LINE TO MAKE CALLS AND YOUR BLUE BOX
ORIGINATOR!...WELL, I REMEMBER SOMEONE POSTING IT BUT NO CODE...HMM TRY 151
WHEN YOU HEAR THE TONE...THEN 1+#(THIS IS TO MAKE IT DIAL TONES INSTEAD OF
ROTARY....SO 1+#+A/C+THE #... NOW BACK TO BOXING...YOU WILL DO YOUR 2600 HTZ
AND THEN IF YOU DID IT RIGHT, YOU WILL IT DO A 2600, THEN CLUNK-CLUNK(THE 2
CLUNKS ARE THE "KICK BACK" I LOVE TO SEE SOME ASSHOLE SAY: "THE TONE IS
DETECTED" IT IS THE KICKBACK THAT IS DETECTED...NOW, YOU ARE ON A TRUNK LINE
WHICH OPERATORS USE TO MAKE THEIR CALLS(THE LITTLE BITCHES GET TO CALL FOR
FREE!)NOW...YOU HAVE ALL BUT 10 TO 15 SECS TO STIMULATE IT WITH YOUR
MF(MULTI-FREQUENCY) TONES...IF YOU DO NOT THE LINE WILL TELL YOU TO GO SCREW
YOURSELF...(YOU KNOW, I FIND TRUNK LINES EASIER TO STIMULATE THAN GIRLS!...OH,
WELL...)NOW YOU ALWAYS DIAL 'KP' (KEYPULSE...THIS TONE TELLS THE LINE THAT YOU
ARE GONNA SCREW MA BELL AND IT WAITS FOR YOU NEXT SHIT LOAD OF #'S...)OK...NOW
OPERATOR LINES ARE **NOTHING** LIKE THE CRAP BELL GIVES US...OPERATORS CAN DIAL
#'S WHICH WE WOULDN'T DREAM OF DIALING...LIKE THE BELL TELE-CONFRENCING... YOU
THEN PROCEED TO DIAL OUT YOUR #...I WILL TELL YOU HOW TO DO THIS IN THE NEXT
MESSAGE...NOW...I DONT ADVISE DOING TRANSFERS OR CALLS TO SECURITY LAND (C)
(HAHA) OR ANY BOARDS...SEE, YOU ARE STILL GOING THROUGH INFORMATION IN CANADA
AND IT MIGHT LOOK KINDA FUNNY THAT YOU HAD A 1 1/2 HR. TALK WITH
INFORMATION... MAYBE YOU DID!I DOUBT IT...OK IF YOU SCREW THE # YOU WANT TO
DIAL UP...JUST DO ANOTHER 2600 AND YOU WILL BE PUT ON THE TRUNK AGAIN...(HMMM A
REUSABLE LINEI KNOW SOME GIRLS LIKE THAT) WELL ANYWAY AFTER YOU DIAL THE # YOU
WANT *ALWAYS* END ANY # YOU EVER DIAL WITH 'S'(START...THIS TELLS THE LINE TO
MOVE ITS ASS AND DIAL)...WELL THAT IS THE OUTLINE OF BLUE BOXING...WELL I HAVE
SOME MORE ROOM...OK...DIFFERENT THINGS...

OK...THE THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH A BOX ARE NOT LIMITED YET I DONT ADVISE USING
A BOX AT ALL...THE FOLLOWING ARE SOME THINGS YOU CAN DO AFTER GETTING ON A
TRUNK AND YOU DIAL KP...OH, SHIT I FORGOT ABOUT ROUTING CODES...YA SEE TRUNKS
ARE DUMB AND YOU MUST TELL IT HOW TO MAKE A CALL...YOU JUST DONT DIAL
KP213-556-3654S...YOU HAVE TO TELL IT HOW...AFTER GETTING ON A TRUNK LINE DIAL
KP009S...IF YOUR CALL GOES THROUGH...HIT(IN NORMAL T TONES)AN AREA CODE AND AN
EXCHANGE WHICH YOU WOULD LIKE TO CALL...IT WILL TELL YOU SOMETHING LIKE THIS...
CHECK NINE 213+954+...THIS MEANS THAT ALL THE PAY PHONES IN THIS AREA HAVE A
NINE IN THE #(I DONT KNOW WHERE) THE REASON SHE SAYS THAT IS BECAUSE IF A
PERSON CALLS AN OPERATOR AND TRIES TO MAKE A COLLECT CALL TO A PAY PHONE, SHE
ILL DIAL KP009S AND SEE THAT THE # IS A PAYPHONE AND WILL NOW ALLOW THE SHIT...
YOU DONT CARE ABOUT THIS...YOU WANT THE 213+954+(OR WHATEVER)THIS IS THE WAY TO
DIAL YOUR DESIRED #(THIS IS GETTING VERY CONFUSING) THE 213 IS THE AREA CODE
AND 954 IS THE ROUTING CODE...LETS ASSUME THAT WE WANT TO CALL THIS BOARD AND
LETS ASSUME THAT 954 IS THE ROUTING CODE...YOU WOULD HAVE TO DIAL
"KP213-954-556-3654S" THEN IT SHOULD WORK...MOST #S DONT HAVE ROUTING CODES...
YOU JUST HAVE TO DIAL KP213-556-3654S AND IT WILL WORK...ALWAYS CHECK THE
ROUTING CODE BEFORE DIALING A #...ALOT OF THE TIME YOU KP009S WILL NOT GO
THROUGH...SO DIAL THIS... 314-535-7390...THIS IS THE SAME AS DIALING KP009S
BUT THROUGH BELL AND YOU ARE USING TOUCH TONES...IT WILL ANSWER AND YOU HIT #
TO SEE IF ITS OK...IF IT SAYS (IN A QUEER VOICE(PROBABLY CALIFORNIAN HAHA))
REDIAL REDIAL...YOU ARE OK... NOW HIT THE AREA CODE AND EXCHANGE AND IT WILL
TELL YOU THE ROUTING CODE... AND LETS ASSUME ARE OLD EXAMPLE "CHECK NINE
213+954+(AFTER THE LAST +GOES THE 7 DIGIT #...I HAVE TO CHECK ON
IT...)ANYWAY...TRY ALL THIS...I AM NOT THE BEST PERSON AT EXPLAINING THINGS
LIKE THIS WHEN IT COMES TO TYPING...IT IS EASIER TO EXLAIN IT(VOICE)...I KNOW
THERE ARE A LOT OF THINGS THAT YOU ARE UNCLEAR ON. POST ALL INQURIES(SP?) ON
THE BOARD AND I WILL ANSWER THEM IMMEADIATELY...IT IS MUCH EASIER FOR ME THIS
WAY... OK...WELL AFTER I SEE THAT YOU ALL UNDERSTAND THIS I WILL POST SOME
NICE BLUE BOX NUMBERS...ALSO...ABOUT ESS...IT IS DUMB TO EXPLAIN WHY BUT JUST
LISTEN DO NOT TRY TO UNDERSTAND..YOU CANT BOX ON ESS...YOU WILL BE NAILED...I
KNOW SOME IDIOTS THAT HAVE DONE IT AND THEY ARE NOT CAUGHT YET...IT TAKES
TIME...DO NOT THINK YOU ARE SO SMART...I AM ON ESS...I BOX WITH A FRIEND WHO IS
ON CBAR 5... HE IS SAFE(NOT ENTIRELY...NO ONE IS ABSOLUTELY SAFE)...ESS *HAS*
ITS ADVANTAGES BUT BOXING IS NOT ONE OF THEM... WELL, I HAVE A LOT TO
OFFER...LETS SEE HOW YOU LIKE THIS BUNCH OF WORDS...I HAVE A LOT TO TELL
YOU...JUST HOPE YOU APPRECIATE IT...WELL, I AM TIRED OF TYPING AND I WANT YOU
ALL TO READ THIS...HAVE FUN AND PHREAK FOREVER

A LITTLE MISTAKE...WHEN YOU DIAL THE ROUTING #(THAT 314 NUMBER OR KP009S) THE
213+954+ IS HOW YOU WOULD REACH THE OPERATOR IN THAT AREA...TO MAKE A CALL WITH
A BOX, JUST DIAL KP+THE AREA CODE AND THE #+START...IF YOU CANT GET THROUGH,
AND YOU WANT TO DIAL THE OPERATOR THEN YOU GO LIKE THIS...LETS SAY YOU WANT THE
OPERATOR IN THE 213 AREA IN THE 556 EXCHANGE...*THEN* YOU WOULD DIAL
213+954(954 IS NOT THE ROUTING CODE...IT IS JUST HYPOTHETICAL) AND THEN TO DIAL
AN OPERATOR ADD 121...SO IT LOOKS SOMETHING LIKE THIS: KP213-954-121-S...OR
LETS SAY YOU WANTED TO CALL AN ELITE CITY LIKE NY(NY IS THE BEST PLACE IN THE
WORLD!)YOU WOULD DIAL...KP212-121S...YOU WOULD ONLY WANT TO DIAL AN OPERATOR
FOR EMEREGENCY BREAKTHROUGHS OR VERIFICATION OF A # OR WHATEVER...OR IF YOU
CANT REACH YOUR DESIRED # YOURSELF...ITS A LOT OF FUN WHEN YOU DIAL 121 TO GET
AN OPERATOR BECAUSE SHE WILL ANSWER: HELLO OPERATOR...THAT MAKES ME FEEL REAL
GOOD...AND ONE THING...SOUND OFFICIAL IF THERE IS ONE THING THAT LOOKS BAD IS
WHEN YOU SAY: "UH UMMM WELL I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE AAA AN EMERGENCY BREAKTHROUGH
DUHH ON 213-556-3654..." WHEN YOU SPEAK TOO OPERATOR, SOUND OFFICIAL...*NEVER*
SAY THE A/C BECAUSE IF YOU WANT TO BREAK THROUGH A # IN THE 213 AREA, YOU WOULD
CALL THE 213 OPERATOR. JUST GIVE THE 7 DIGIT #...REMEMBER YOU DIAL THE AREA
CODE+ROUTING CODE(IF ANY) AND THEN 121...THIS IS THE CORRECT THING TO SAY:
OPERATOR:MAY I HELP YOU OPERATOR? YOU:YES I WOULD LIKE AN EMERGENCY ON
5563654(SAY IT SLOW BECAUSE OPERATORS ARE VERY VERY SLOW...THEN YOU WILL HEAR
HER DIAL...THAT IS ALL.

AFTER USING THE BLUE BOX FOR SOME TIEM, I HAVE LEARND OF IT'S USEFULNESS.
LET US SAY THAT YOU WANT TO FIND AN UNPUBLISHED PHONE UMBER. THE NORMAL WAY IS
TO GO THROUGH A THING CALL "EMERGENCY UNPLUBISHED" IF YOU WANT TO FIND A NUMBER
AND KEEP YOUR IDENITY A SECRET, USE YOUR BOX TO DIAL KP131S. WHEN THE OPERATOR
ANSWERS, ASK FOR THE SUPERVISIOR. THEN TELL HIM THAT YOU ARE AN OPERATOR FROM
THE 514 AREA CODE (OR WHAT EVER AREA YOU BLEW 2600 FROM) AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO
REACH EMERGENCY UNPUB. THE SUPERVISOR WILL CALL HIS SUPERVISOR (NOW WE ARE
GETTING CLSE TO GOD), AND THEY WILL TRACE THE LINE BACK TO VERIFY THAT YOU ARE
AN OPERATOR. DON'T GET WORRIED. THEY CAN'T TELL WHERE YOU ARE CALLING FROM.
ONLY THAT YOU ARE ON THE 514 TRUNK. THEY WILL GIVE YOU THE NUMBER AND YOU WILL
BLOW THEM OFF WITH 2600. DON'T JUST HANG UP. SAY "THANK YOU OPERATOR." IF YOU
ARE RUDE, THEY WILL BECOME SUSPISOUS. ALSO, THERE IS A 4 DIGIT VERIFYCATION
CODE THAT WILL ALOW YOU TO TAP LINES. I USED TO HAVE ONE, BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM
TO WORK ANYMORE. TRY HACKING IT.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MORE BLUE BOXiNG

We all know that the touch tones frequencies are composed
of two tones (Two different freqs.) so that is the reason
why we have 2 VCO'S ( Voltage controlled oscilators). We
will call these VCO#1 and VCO#2. If you have noticed
VCO#1 and VCO#2 are exactly the same type of circuits.
That is why only one was drawn. But remember that whatever
goes for VCO#1 also goes for VCO#2. Both VCO'S are composed
of a handfull of parts. one chip two capacitors 2 resistors
and five potentiometers. All of this will give you (when properly
calibrated) one of the freqs. necessary (the other one will
come from VCO#2) for the operation of the BB. Both of these
freqs. will be mixed in the speaker thus forming the required
tone.

This is one of the most sophisticated designs I have ever made.
Why?. because other designs will drain the battery after 10 -
call
This design will make them last 10 months!!!!!!. But
never the less don't forget to put in a switch for on and off.
Ok let's build the two VCO'S and calibr
ate the unit before
we get to the keyboard contruction.

VCO construction
=== ============
Tools required

1
ocilliscope (recomended but not required)
1 Freq. counter (required)
1 Volt meter " " "
Electronics tools (Pliers,drill, screwdrivers, etc)

Parts :

R1 1.5K resistor 5%
R2 1K resistor 5%
C1 .1uf electrolytic capacitor 16VDC
C2 .01uf elerctolytic capacitor (mylar) 16VDC
IC1 2207 VCO chip by Exar Electronics
remember the above it is only for VCO#1 but the same goes for
VCO#2

R3-R4 150 ohm resistors 5%
C3-C4 .1 uf electrolytic capacitor 10VDC
P1-P10 200K trimmer pot - 20 turns
diodes used in the keyboard are 1N914 type (40 of them)
and 13 switches for the keyboards spst. Momentary..

SPKR= You can use a telephone speaker for this (it works best)
but remember to take out the diode that is connected
across it.
****************************************************************
Important notes

(1)=-> Do not use anything else than a Mylar capacitor for C2.
(2)=-> Pins 10, 9, 8 should be tied together and be left floating.
(3)=-> All resistors should be nothing less than 5%.
(4)=-> A telephone speaker gives the best results.
*****************************************************************

Trouble Shooting

By now you should have constructed the two VCO'S
on a bread board or anything that pleases you.

Check for cold solder joints, broken wires, polarity
of the battery, etc.........

Before we apply power to the VCO'S we have to adjust the pots
for their half way travel point. This is done by turning them
21 turns to the right and then 10 turns to the left. Do the
same for all ten of them.

Now apply power to the unit check to see that you have power
in the chips by putting the positive lead of your volt meter
on pin 7 and the negative lead on pin 12. If you don't have
anything there turn off the unit ant RECHECK THE WIRING.

When you get the right voltages on the chips, connect a
diode to a piece of wire (look at fig. 2 for the orientation
of the diode) from ground to any pot at point T (look carefully
at the schematic for point T it is labeled T1-T10 for all pots)
You shold be able to hear a tone, if not dissconnect the lead
and place the speaker close to your ear and if you hear a chirp
like sound, this means that the two VCO'S are working if you don't,
it means that either one or both of the VCO'S is dead.
So in this case it is allways good to have an ocilloscope on hand.

Disconnect the speaker from the circuit and hookup the ocilliscope
to one of the leads of the speaker and the ground from the scope
to the ground of the battery. Connect again the ground lead
with the diode connected to it from ground to any pot on the
VCO that you are checking and you should see a triangle wave
if not turn the pot in wich you are applying the ground to

until you see it. When you do see it do the the same for the
other VCO to make sure it is working. (amplitude is about 2VAC)

When you get the two VCO'S worki

ng you are set for the adjustment
of the individuals pots...

Adjustment

Disconnect the speaker from the circuit and connect a freq.
counter (the positive lead of the counter to one of the speakers
leads that belongs to VCO#1 or connect it to pin 14).

Connect the negative lead to the battery negative and
connect the jumper lead with the diode from ground to pot number 1
T1 .( The first pot number 1 point T1)
If you got it working you should hear a tone and get a reading on the
counter. Adjust the pot for a freq. of 1700hz and continue doing the
same for pots 2-5 except that they get differents freqs.

P1= 1700hz
P2= 1300hz
P3= 1100hz
P4= 900hz
P5= 1500hz

Now disconnect the freq. counter from the speaker lead of VCO#1 or
from pin 14 (which ever you had it attached to at the beginning) and
connect it to the speaker lead of VCO#2 or to pin 14 of VCO#2 and
perform the same adjustments to P6-10.

P6= 1100hz
P7= 700hz
P8= 900hz
P9= 2600hz (magic number)
P10= 1500hz

When you finish doing all of the pot go back and recheck them
again.
Keyboard
If you look at fig-2 you will see that the keys are simple switches
connected to ground and two diodes on the other end. These diodes
are used to simplify the construction of the keyboard because otherwise
the distribution of the ground signal for both VCO'S would have been
done mechanically. One diode will go to VCO#1 and the other will go to
VCO#2. Fig-3 shows the arrangement of the keys on the keyboard.

Below is a table that will help you connect
the keys to required VCO'S pots.

TO TO FREQ OUT FREQ OUT
KEY POT ON VCO1 POT ON VCO2 PIN 14 VCO1 PIN 14 VCO
C 1 6 1700 1100
0 2 10 1300 1500
E 1 10 1700 1500
1 4 7 900 700
2 3 7 1100 700
3 3 8 1100 900
4 2 7 1300 700
5 2 8 1300 900
6 2 6 1300 1100
7 5 7 1500 700
8 5 8 1500 900
9 5 6 1500 1100
X - 9 ---- 2600

***********************************************************************
* Remember that FIG2 is the same for each key except the 'X' which *
* only takes one diode. *
***********************************************************************

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, that's it - hope you read them all, and are now chock-full-o-knowledge.

DISCLAiMER:
I, PARAS˜TE take NO responsibility for ANY actions stemming from one's
reading this text phile.

call the CoRoSioN boards to get in touch with me, or just to leech some groovy
texts on this sort of stuff :)

PaRaS˜Te '94
[CoRoSioN]